Cabbages and kings
Want to cook cabbage like a chef from a Michelin restaurant? Try this recipe from Simon Levy of Michelin-star Christchurch restaurant Inati.
Author Lewis Carroll wrote the now-famous “cabbages and kings” line into his poem, ‘The Walrus and the Carpenter’. In China, the cabbage is a symbol of prosperity, and two cities boast enormous cabbage statues, one of which is 65 feet tall. In 1700s Istanbul, Sultan Selim III wrote an ode to the cabbage at the height of the Ottoman Empire.
In other words, the humble cabbage is not so humble. This magnificent vegetable is the main ingredient in dishes across the globe, from kimchi to sauerkraut, coleslaw, stuffed cabbage, bubble and squeak, Irish colcannon, Ukrainian borscht, and more.
In honour and celebration of this brilliant brassica, co-owner of the recently Michelin-starred Inati restaurant, Simon Levy has created a dish that has cabbage as the hero at the centre of the dish, inspired by his work with French culinary legend Pierre Koffman. “Working with Pierre Koffmann showed me just how iconic cabbage could be,” Simon says.
“His famous Koffmann cabbage became one of the most celebrated dishes on the menu, proving that the simplest ingredients can often be the most memorable.
“At Inati, heroing cabbage is a reminder that great cooking isn’t about expensive ingredients; it’s about treating exceptional produce with respect, showcasing its natural flavour, and creating something that guests remember long after they’ve left the chef’s table.”
Cabbage health benefits
- Cabbage is packed with vitamins C and K (essential for bone health), fibre for gut health, anthocyanins for heart health, and sulforaphane for lowering inflammation linked to causing chronic diseases.
- Cabbage leaves have been used to relieve pain caused by breastfeeding and applying a cabbage leaf compress to your forehead is an old European folk remedy used to soothe migraines.
Simon Levy’s: Glazed cabbage for the home cook
Ingredients
• 1 cabbage
• 110g honey
• 50g Dijon mustard
• 40g soy sauce
• 40g ketchup or tomato paste
• 300g canola oil
• 8g curry powder
• 8g smoked paprika
• 5 garlic cloves
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 cloves
• 8g ginger
• 8g vinegar
• 1 red chilli
Method
- Make the marinade: Blend all ingredients together and strain through a fine sieve.
- Prepare the cabbage: Remove any damaged outer leaves and cut the cabbage in half through the core, keeping the core intact so the cabbage holds together.
- Marinate: Place the cabbage halves into a large zip-lock bag or a snug baking dish and pour over the marinade, ensuring the cabbage is well coated. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight, turning once or twice if possible.
- Cook the cabbage: Heat your oven to 150°C – 160°C. Place the cabbage cut-side down in a baking dish, pour over all of the marinade and cover tightly with baking paper and then foil (or use a casserole dish with a lid). Bake 2 hours for a firmer texture, or 4 hours for a tender, buttery texture. The cabbage is ready when a knife slides easily into the thickest part.
- Make the glaze: Carefully remove the cabbage and pour the cooking liquid into a small saucepan. Simmer over a medium heat until reduced to a glossy glaze that coats the back of a spoon.
- Finish over high heat: Cut each cabbage half into two wedges. Brush generously with the glaze and finish on a hot barbecue, grill or cast-iron pan until lightly charred and caramelised on the cut sides. Brush with more glaze as it cooks.
- To serve: remove the core of the cabbage and glaze with the remaining marinade.
Note: Simon serves this with fresh buttermilk and a sprinkle of pumpkin seed furikake, which adds creaminess, crunch and a savoury finish.
Note: Simon serves this with fresh buttermilk and a sprinkle of pumpkin seed furikake, which adds creaminess, crunch and a savoury finish.
Cabbage as symbol of wealth
In Chinese culture, the cabbage (bái cài) is a pun on ‘hundred wealths’ (băi cái), making it an auspicious symbol of prosperity, abundance and good fortune that is often depicted in art.
Images by: Jerome Warburton
