Hanmer’s history of wellbeing


The term ‘mountain spa’ could conjure a vision of Edward VII. The King’s faithful furry companion Caesar by his side, trailing mistresses and card-playing cronies.

Ed chugging pints of Marienbad water as penance for his five-course breakfast. Or it might invoke modern day Baden-Baden, where the Beckhams could run into Beyonce, with the Obamas due by boat across the lake any minute.

Whatever your vision of a mountain spa town, chances are it screams luxury, and chances also are it whispers, “not this year anyway”. The proud tradition of “taking the waters” and relaxing in the crisp mountain air has been on our very doorstep since 1859. And what’s more, our mountain spa town is very dog friendly too.

For those of us of a certain age, Hanmer Springs is home of the day trip. The ride in the back seat of the Holden or the Falcon, the soak in the hot pools, and the ritual scaling of Conical Hill. For us, the town has always been there, resulting in a teensy tendency to take it for granted.

That’s a mistake, because Hanmer Springs is a natural wonder. It is redolent with history, and more capable than ever of soothing weary bodies, boosting sagging spirits. Its cheery holiday atmosphere helping with the very clear and present reality of recovering from whatever Covid-19 has thrown at you.

The hot springs of the Hanmer Basin were well known to Māori, and then stumbled upon by local runholder William Jones in 1859.

The first baths were opened in 1883. Considered a healthier option, it transpires patrons swam in their birthday suits in separated sessions. A skirt or pair of trousers was hoisted on a pole by the dressing shed, to avoid awkward errors.

A sanatorium was built in 1897, and visitors could bathe, inhale steam, or drink water from the springs. The Sanatorium burnt down in 1914 and was replaced with Queen Mary hospital, a facility idyllically located for the recovery of wounded and shell-shocked veterans of WW1. The facility extended its care to those with joint disorders, psychiatric illnesses, and alcoholism.

Today Hanmer Springs is still a sanctuary, with the bonus of gorgeous dining choices, many with outdoor dog-friendly areas. The accommodation on offer is extensive, ranges in price, and there are plenty of dog-friendly options for overnight stays. Wedding and conference venues abound.

The thermal pools have changed beyond recognition since the early days. The whole family is catered for, plus The Spa carries on the therapeutic tradition. The mountain biking is sublime, and the forest walking options seem endless. And of course, that iconic walk up to the top of Conical Hill?

Your four-legged friend can tag along too.


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