Climbing high – 27 Steps
Fine wining and dining doesn’t come any finer than this long-standing New Regent Street fixture.
A few months ago, my husband and I wandered into 27 Steps on New Regent Street looking to have dinner and a glass of wine before heading to the theatre.
We hadn’t booked, and the place was packed. Many restaurateurs would have sighed heavily or turned us away. Not Emma Mettrick. Co-owner of the popular European-inspired restaurant alongside their wine bar, Downstairs, underneath with chef Paul Howells, she made it her business to find us a spot by the window and hunt down chairs. Going out of her way to make us welcome. Her warmth is what I remember most. Having said that, the food was also outstanding. I can recommend the panfried fish in brown shrimp butter with poached Agria potato fondant. And a glass of the Pegasus Bay Riesling, which Emma calls the “gateway drug” to other Waipara wines she likes to champion.
While Paul is passionate about food, Emma finds joy in wine and holds an advanced level qualification in wine studies. “I love supporting Waipara as a wine-growing region; it should be a lot more recognised.” Current favourites? “I am loving the 2024 Black Estate Home pinot noir, and the Greystone Chardy has been a best friend many a time over the years.”
Between them, the couple – who met while working in a Galway restaurant in 2007 (“he was the chef, I was a waitress”) – cover all bases for a complete hospitality experience. Their first business was Little Bistro in Akaroa. They sold up and moved to Ōtautahi when son Fin started school, and opened 27 Steps in 2015.
Part of the enduring success is the excellent food. “Paul’s soups are always incredible, we’re well-known for that. I think he should do a soup cookbook. We’re well-known for our red meat, too, but I’m actually vegetarian, so we make a real effort with our meat-free and vegan meals.”
How do they stay passionate about what they do? “It’s the instant gratification and the ever-changing nature of the job. When Paul receives a ‘compliments to the chef’ he buzzes. We genuinely love making peoples’ day. We’re just little people pleasers really!”
