Designing with purpose: Jenny Joblin

Jenny Joblin, founder and creative director of urban streetwear label Federation, was 17 when she lost her mother to breast cancer. Today, it’s what drives her to support research funding through fashion, writes Metropol Editor Nina Tucker.

“I have no words for the ramifications of losing our mum as teenagers,” Jenny says, her brother 14 at the time. Decades have passed and Jenny continues to support the research that strives to reduce New Zealand’s breast cancer rate, which is “still way too high”. Tees for a Cure, a fundraising collaboration between top national designers and the charity Breast Cancer Cure, has funded more than $1 million worth of research – and Jenny has been involved since the start.

This year’s eighth campaign promises to be the biggest yet, involving 17 Kiwi designers and their printed tee designs. An ambitious target to sell all 3600 tees makes a powerful statement on the 3600 people diagnosed with breast cancer nationwide each year. It doesn’t stop there – the charity organises fashion shows nationwide, each raising life-changing funds for researchers. Founded in 1997, Breast Cancer Cure has raised more than $11 million in research grants, and with the help from designers like Jenny and public generosity, that will continue. “It’s so important to do things that have purpose, big or small,” Jenny says.

A brand built on printed garments, the ongoing collaboration between Federation and Tees for a Cure was “such an easy yes”, for Jenny, “especially for such an incredible cause”. Each year is a new opportunity for Jenny to beautifully tribute her mother, honouring “all that she had given us and taught us to be during the years we had her”.

A CREATIVE EYE
Federation “is a bit of an institution in New Zealand”, Jenny says, as she gears up to mark its 25th birthday at the end of this year. “Turning 25 is a biggie. We aren’t sure how we will celebrate, but at least a big pat on the back and hopefully our best collection yet,” she laughs.

Jenny’s eye for art and an innovative business brain eventually led to launching Federation’s sister, an all-inclusive homewares brand. “Somekind started as a home for my art, and has been kept as an expression for us of projects that didn’t fit into Federation – the collision of some cool ideas with our design aesthetic,”
Jenny shares, indicating a perfume and other bath products on the way.

I’ve admired Jenny’s creative output for years, always pondering her ability to push boundaries in completely incredible and intriguing ways. Her answer? “Each collection starts off different, either from artwork, fabrics we have sourced and love, or a previous style that has worked so well.” Sometimes,
the inception of an idea doesn’t hit the mark – yet more often than not it’s a great sigh of relief when a garment comes together beautifully.

Creating collections to be cherished in an ever-changing clothing market has been an enormous challenge, yet it’s something Jenny and her team continue to excel at. I could easily switch the word ‘team’ for family here – Jenny’s husband Ben is a co-owner and general manager, while her daughter Ryder, just months away from her fifth anniversary working behind the scenes, models in campaigns and content. Sons Monte and Dusty work at Federation in between their studies, and Jenny adores how close she can be with family through her work.

Such a support system comes in handy. “The journey has been a lot, to be honest,” Jenny reflects. She resurrected the brand from the hands of liquidators in 2016 and started Federation fresh – yet nothing has been easy or without resilience. Relatable to many small business owners, “The last year or two has been super tough.”

For the designer, balance is her saving grace. “Life at home is a priority, making the best memories along the way for your kids and yourself too, and on the business front being able to pivot and navigate what the best decision is for where you are at.” Under immense pressure, Jenny focuses on “being quick when something isn’t working, or developing and learning from something that is.”

Perhaps it is Jenny’s grounded nature and considered routine that affords her radiant character. Mornings begin at 5.30am with a run outdoors or a gym session, unless, of course, the weather has other plans. She walks home, picking up a coffee on the way, using the time to think or listen to a podcast.

“This sets me up so well for the day.” The return home is less chaotic now with teenagers, Jenny laughs. “It’s pretty low maintenance, maybe I’ll just make them a smoothie or do some washing.” At work, she makes an effort to catch up with the team, before concentrating on designing and bringing to life upcoming launches – it was Federation’s summer collection at the time we spoke. Come noon, Jenny and Ben head on a lunch date. “It’s cool, we talk about work so we don’t need to as much at home. It’s a challenge to have that separation.”

A veteran in New Zealand’s fashion industry, Jenny has faced many challenges and risen above them all. It’s inspiring – Jenny’s story – the commitment to good causes and creativity across 25 years and counting. She labels her Tees for a Cure design as a “gift”, yet somehow I think the true gift is her.

To support the cause, visit www.breastcancercure.org.nz/tees-winter-edit