Sarah Cotterall on success
Sarah Cotterall is the brains behind one of the iconic New Zealand jewellery brands you will find on the shelves of fashion stores nationwide – Silk & Steel. She tells Metropol Deputy Editor Nina Tucker about the 15-year ride.
Ideas simmer in my mind until I reach the point where I need to start sketching and forming a story and a collection,” Sarah says on bringing her jewellery to life, which can take weeks to months. She grew up in London around the same time as Kate Moss was rising to fame. Influenced by the thriving creative fashion scene there, which the series In Vogue: The 90s showcases vibrantly, and surrounded by other talents pushing boundaries, Sarah had every incentive to set her goals in motion. London museums showcasing archived fashion, Summers in Italy, and a stint in Paris following university sent her design dreams soaring.
Such big ideas felt frightening–and an offer to study fashion and marketing at Central Saint Martins, a world-renowned arts and design college, was traded for a Bachelor of Arts with Honours in international marketing management. “I was so intimated by the level of talent [at Central Saint Martins]. I doubted myself and worried whether I was good enough.” That decision became a blessing, giving Sarah the business acumen to combine with her passion and creativity to craft a solid brand.
A dissertation on the late, great Vivienne Westwood’s influence on fashion lingers in Sarah’s mind, as do the hours she spent with her Italian mother, who taught her to sew, on college projects, including reconstructing a Vivienne Westwood corset.
Nowadays, inspiration draws from architectural, vintage, fashion, and gemstone sources, including customer wishes. An aspect of the brand was always exclusivity, so Sarah keeps this in mind with each collection. “I loved finding those one-off pieces that made me different. Even back then, I knew I wanted to create something special that, if you missed it, you might not get it again.”
Silk & Steel, which grew from a “burning desire and passion to create not only beautiful jewellery but an accessible lifestyle accessory,” celebrates its 15th birthday this year. The maturation has been a “process of natural evolution. The brand has grown as I have grown as a designer, and our collections reflect that journey.” Three ranges developed to cater to different age brackets within their clientele, and consistent accessible luxury offerings, Sarah wouldn’t change a thing. “I’ve learned to trust my instincts and listen to our customers, but also to stay true to myself and my creative direction.” She loves being her own boss. “I work too hard to work for anyone else.”
Becoming an iconic New Zealand jewellery brand is a huge feat, and Sarah explains the satisfaction comes from fulfilling the dream. Emphasising the support crew around her on the journey, she shares “it’s daunting because, as a creative, you put yourself out there and expose your creativity. You have to believe in yourself because if you don’t, no one else will.”
Early on, Sarah didn’t have a choice – she handled everything from campaign and website design, to photography, copywriting, PR, and advertising. Then, there was actually creating the pieces she was promoting. Never a trained jeweller, Sarah could warp traditional techniques and push boundaries, then incorporate her love of juxtaposition – “mixing the pretty with the edgy, like pearls with spikes.” Sarah sees the local fashion industry as a whole, so crafts collections that align with the designs of her peers yet can also stand alone. Success is seeing people wear, and love, their jewellery, Sarah adds. “Success isn’t about monetary gain. I love coming in to work every day. That, to me, is success.”
When the brand was a baby, so too were her own. It was an opportune time to pursue her goals while she looked after her children at home. “I used any spare time I had to get creative. I’ve always been passionate and motivated to create my own brand, so the timing was perfect,” she reflects. A strong multi-tasker, and someone who craves a full to-do list, building Silk & Steel from the ground up “was a great outlet.”
Her children, now 16 and 19, require less attention, yet Sarah finds herself even busier. “I’m always looking for the next exciting thing,” she explains. Each collection is more thrilling than the previous. Downtime looks like walks and time spent with loved ones. She laughs. “Funnily enough, I also relax when I’m designing. It’s hard to switch off.”
If you’re building a personal collection, Sarah encourages choosing key pieces, considering sentimental value and one anchor piece. When it comes to styling and layering, “a good way to start is by purchasing pre-layered necklaces or looking at how the jewellery brand has styled pieces together.” Whatever you do, keep trying different combinations. “The more you style your jewellery, the more you will wear those pieces, either alone or together,” she adds.
A LOOK INSIDE SARAH’S BRAIN
Tell me about how you style your outfits, does jewellery or clothing come first?
“It all depends. If I want to wear a particular pair of earrings, I’ll probably style my outfit around them. I’m not very good at planning ahead – I like to dress according to how I feel, what the weather’s like, and where I’m going.
If you could host one celebrity for dinner, who would it be?
“Kate Moss. She grew up in London, not far from where I lived, and we had mutual friends. At the time, because I was only 16, we had no idea how far her career would go. She’s also a muse now, and I love her style. I’m sure she would have lots of interesting stories to tell from her journey in the industry.”
What is your strangest irrational fear?
“Being in a small confined space and feeling trapped. I’m not sure where my claustrophobia came from.”
